Electrical Harley-Davidson Headlights
A Harley headlamp order rarely goes wrong on the lamp itself. It goes wrong on the size, the fairing it sits in, or the ring and wiring that turns out to be needed alongside it. None of the three follow the model name. Genuine Harley-Davidson headlamps, auxiliary lamps, trim and the fitting hardware behind them are for sale here, at 10% off RRP with free UK delivery available.
Two sizes and two fairings decide the fit
Size comes first. Our own titles carry it directly: the 5-3/4in Daymaker Projector LED Headlamp (67700144A, 67700145A) is listed for Dyna, while the 7in versions (67700430A, 67700433A, 67700427A) are listed for Fat Boy, Heritage, Softail and Touring. Get that wrong and nothing else fits. A trim ring or visor bought for the wrong housing won't seat, whatever else about it looks right.
The other split is the fairing itself, and on Touring bikes it matters more than the model name suggests. A Street Glide, Electra Glide or Road King fairing is fork-mounted, so the headlamp nacelle turns with the handlebars. A Road Glide's fairing is bolted to the frame instead, stays fixed as the bars turn, and carries a different headlamp mounting as a result. Only one of the 77 parts live on this page is listed as fitting Road Glide, a trim piece, 61400412DH. That's not an accident. It's the two mounting systems showing up in the stock.
What an MOT tester actually checks on a headlamp
The DVSA's MOT inspection manual for motorcycles, updated 1 April 2026, sets out exactly what gets checked: that one working headlamp is fitted, that its colour is white, yellow, or white with a blue tinge, and that the beam is aligned within tolerance. The manual splits dipped beams into two shapes and tests each differently. A "European type" beam has an asymmetric pattern, cutting off flat on the right with a raised "kick-up" of light to the left, usually carrying an approval mark the manual describes as "a letter 'E' in a circle or an 'e' in a rectangle". A "British American type" beam, the classic round pattern used in most factory nacelles, is checked on main beam instead, for a symmetrical pattern with a central "hot spot". Most Harley factory nacelles run the second kind.
Check your own lamp for the mark described above if that matters for your bike, and ask the parts desk if you're not sure which beam pattern you're actually running. None of the headlamps, trims or auxiliary lamps on this page are supplied with an E-mark, type-approval or road-legal claim, and it remains the customer's responsibility to ensure the motorcycle is road legal.
One question the manual answers directly, and it comes up a lot on imported bikes, is whether a US-spec beam has to be swapped out entirely to be used here. It doesn't, necessarily: the manual states, "You can pass a right hand dip headlamp fitted with masks or converter kits that temporarily alter the lamp for use in the UK by removing the beam 'kick-up' to the right."
What a headlamp swap often pulls in with it
Swapping a lamp is rarely just the lamp. On the mounting side, that's why the shelf carries dedicated trim rings, mounting rings and full nacelle kits alongside the lamps themselves: a 5-3/4in trim ring (61400574) or a 7in one (61400573), a mounting ring kit for the 7in housing (67700487, 67700439), a bullet-style mounting system (68595-06), and complete nacelle kits (61300811, 61300817) that replace the housing itself, not just the lamp inside it. Riders fitting a replacement LED lamp elsewhere report the same snag from the other direction: a housing slightly the wrong depth or diameter for the new unit, needing an extra ring bought on top of it that the listing didn't make obvious.
There's a trade-off behind the auxiliary lamps too. A projector-style LED headlamp throws a sharper, more concentrated beam ahead of the bike than the sealed-beam unit it usually replaces, but riders who've made the swap report less light spilling to the sides, so road signs and verges that used to catch some glow from the old bulb-and-reflector unit go a bit darker. That's a real trade-off, not just an upgrade. It's most of why the 4in Daymaker auxiliary lamps (68000173, 68000340) exist as their own purchase, not a redundant one.
On the electrical side, a factory LED headlamp upgrade on a Touring bike sometimes calls for its own wiring harness (69200897) instead of a straight bulb swap, and independent auxiliary lamps have the same requirement: 69200442 and 69200441 are wire harness kits sold specifically to run them off their own switched circuit. One UK owner who fitted an aftermarket LED headlamp elsewhere reported the opposite fault turning up on its own, where the replacement's electronics didn't sit right with the bike's CANbus system, tripping the alarm and occasionally stopping the bike from starting. That's one owner's account, not a rule for every conversion, but it's the reason a harness built for the job is worth checking for before anything gets wired in.
Fitting it yourself
A straight lamp-for-lamp swap into a nacelle that's already the right size housing is a job most people manage with hand tools: trim ring or visor off, old lamp out, new one in, ring back on. Add a mounting ring that turns out to be the wrong depth, or a Touring fairing that has to come off first, and it stops being a five-minute job. That's what the trim ring, mounting ring and harness parts above are there for.
Check the beam again after dark. Riders who've fitted a noticeably brighter lamp report doing exactly that, because a stronger beam has more potential to dazzle oncoming traffic if it isn't set right. That's the same aim-and-dazzle check the MOT tests for, just seen from the rider's side of the headlamp instead of the tester's.
The rest of the genuine Harley-Davidson parts range, including the fairings, fork covers and turn signals that sit around a headlamp, is worth a look if what you need isn't listed here.